Building Your Log Home

Think of us as your "Log Home Sub-Contractor"

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The basic materials and services we focus upon are: proper log design and drawings, production and delivery of the log work and its re-assembly, and builder consultation.

The first list below, the "Description of materials with logwork" describes the typical contents of our standard job. And I will list what is basically involved in the construction of your log home.

Generally, you can save money by having your own crew re-assemble the logs with our direct supervision, but if needed, We can provide complete logwork re-assembly at your site. NO SPECIAL SKILLS are required to re-assemble the logwork; our supervisor is there to insure a smooth re-assembly.

Although it may seem like an over-simplification, the rest of the project is essentially standard construction. We have devoted years of experience and effort into refining a system that is totally compatible with standard builders and conventional construction. We recommend using a conventional builder, close to home, who will be there for you! Your local builder should be well connected with the local support system of suppliers and subcontractors.

The normal sequence of building a home is unchanged (from conventional) with our system.

Typically it goes something like this:

  1. Land
  2. Plans
  3. Permits
  4. Septic systems, water, electric, access road
  5. Order logs, start digging
  6. Your crew or builder builds basement, subfloor & deck at site, (or slab or crawl space as per your needs or preferences.)
  7. Our highly skilled hand crafters build logwalls to same set of plans at logyard. We also build the loft log joists, log stairs and railings, supporting gables, and roof and porch beams and posts at this time. We predrill holes for the throughbolts, and sand the structure (this not the final interior sanding.) Then each log is re-inspected, grade stamped, and numbered. Your home is loaded when you are ready at your homesite.
  8. Your crew OR our crew re-assembles log work with our expert supervision (for most plans, 1 to 2 days is likely)
  9. Build & dry in roof system. We will consult with the builder at the site and we have toll free phone support for further consultation as needed
  10. Build interior partitions and log bucks and install windows and doors.
  11. Complete rest of house in normal manner.

The logs are placed on a standard foundation as normally used according to your local standard practice for your soil conditions, such as an 8" steel reinforced poured concrete or block basement or crawl space with a conventional subfloor system, or a slab. You will need 1X6 lumber to put under the logs around the bottom row. This allows drip edges and flooring to be slid under the logs, which eliminates the need for base trimming around the inside, and makes it possible to use any foundation covering you wish outside.

Most interior partition walls are typically of standard construction, (interior walls are usually not log.) The partitions in the main level are held 4" below the ceiling to allow for log settling. The resulting settling gap is trimmed with 1X6 material around the top of each room. Where the framed partition walls meet the logs, a 1X8 trim board is inserted into the logwalls. Basement and second floor or loft partition framing is done in conventional manner.

Windows and doors in the log openings are mounted in simple rectangular frames, called window or door bucks made from 2 x 10 lumber, made to the inside dimensions matching the size of the window or door.

Electrical outlets are installed in the bottom row with wire routed into the box through the subfloor. Switch plates are installed near openings, just like a conventional house and are wired through the keyways which are precut into the logs at the logyard.

Plumbing is not normally put in outside walls in residential walls, except for sillcocks, which are installed normally. There are only two settling accommodations needed for plumbing: The supply plumbing needs a simple loop made of flexible soft copper or plastic tubing between the first and second levels. Then when the logs settle, the loop can expand. The drain plumbing needs a standard expansion joint in-line between the first and second levels, set to the fully expanded position, so that it can be compressed as the logs settle. This expansion joint is readily available from commercial supply.

There are many ways to build the roof system, ranging from standard rafters or trusses and plywood with fibrous or sprayed insulation to stress skin panels. This is best discussed with you, your builder and BigLog Homes to determine the best choice. Of course, we are happy to express our preferences, just ask!

Caulking, chinking, log finishing, vary according to construction type, locality, log species.